| Description |
1 online resource (xvi, 200 pages) |
|
text file |
| Summary |
"There is a new form of design practice within the contemporary fashion industry which is active in complex forms of social commentary and critique. While fashion in the modernist era has shown signs of criticism and subversion, these were either in the form of subcultures or perversions, such as punk or BDSM styling. Today, however, these genres have been absorbed into the fashion industry itself, meaning that "critical fashion" is now far from limited to the subcultures from which it came. This book explores this new space for criticism within the popular fashion sphere to demonstrate how designers are disrupting conventions, challenging beliefs and stirring change from within the system itself. Critical Fashion Practice considers a range of contemporary designers across the globe, from the US to Japan, whose conceptual designs embody this critical language, including case studies such as Rei Kawakubo's deconstructive silhouettes for Comme des Garçons and Walter Van Beirendonck's sadomasochistic menswear collections, amongst other key players such as Miuccia Prada, Vivienne Westwood and Viktor & Rolf. Arguing that the rise of critical fashion coincides with a noticeable decline in the criticality of art, Geczy and Karaminas go beyond slotting fashion into previously established art theories. Conceiving a new cultural role for fashion that affords insight into identity, class, race, sexuality and gender, this book shows how fashion can not only reflect and comment on, but can also be a part of social change"-- Provided by publisher. |
| Bibliography |
Includes bibliographical references and index. |
| Contents |
Cover page ; Halftitle page ; About the book ; Title page ; Copyright ; Dedication ; CONTENTS; LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS; ACKNOWLEDGMENTS; INTRODUCTION: FROM SUBCULTURE TO HIGH CULTURE; 1 VIVIENNE WESTWOOD'S UNRULY RESISTANCE; Situationism; "Let it Rock," "Too Fast to Live, Too Young to Die," "SEX," "Seditionaries" and "World's End"; Boutique bricoleur: the meaning of DIY style; Punk and after: the ontology of contemporary fashion; Westwood in the 1980s; For the love of Englishness: "Harris Tweed," "Britain Must Go Pagan" and "Anglomania"; Active resistance to propaganda. |
|
2 REI KAWAKUBO'S DECONSTRUCTIVIST SILHOUETTEDeconstruction; Deconstruction and architecture; Deconstruction and fashion; Unclear culture; The inside and outside of clothing; Undead minimalism; 3 GARETH PUGH'S CORPOREAL UNCOMMENSURABILITIES; Masks and performance; Posthumanity and dolls; Immaterial and imaginary fashion; 4 MIUCCIA PRADA'S INDUSTRIAL MATERIALISM; Making ugly cool; Creative collaborations; Prada and cinema; 5 AITOR THROUP'S ANATOMICAL NARRATIVES; Spinozist fashion; Fields of fantasy; The work of fashion in the age of digital reproducibility. |
|
He's got legs and knows how to use themSkulls, armor and renunciation; 6 VIKTOR & ROLF'S CONCEPTUAL IMMATERIALITIES; Conceptual art versus conceptual fashion; The appearance of nothing; Ciphers; Dolls; "No" and beyond; 7 RAD HOURANI'S GENDER AGNOSTICS1; Unisex, unsex and the tyranny of gender; Androgyny and the different "third terms"; The body in movement; Fashion as installation; 8 RICK OWENS'S GENDER PERFORMATIVITIES; Minimalism; Glamour, decadence and decay; Spatial art and design, installation and furniture; Fashion's avant-garde; Performance art, performing fashion and gender. |
|
9 WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK'S HYBRID SCIENCE FICTIONSThe 1980s in London; Fetishism, clowns, ritual; Headgear and masks; Bodily mutations, shapes and beauty; CONCLUSION: TO ALEXANDER McQUEEN, IN MEMORIAM; NOTES; BIBLIOGRAPHY; INDEX; Plates. |
| Local Note |
eBooks on EBSCOhost EBSCO eBook Subscription Academic Collection - North America |
| Subject |
Fashion -- Social aspects.
|
|
Fashion -- Social aspects. |
|
Fashion design -- Social aspects.
|
|
Fashion design. |
|
Social aspects. |
| Genre/Form |
Electronic books.
|
|
Electronic books.
|
| Added Author |
Karaminas, Vicki, author.
|
| Other Form: |
Print version: Geczy, Adam. Critical fashion practice. New York : Bloomsbury Academic, 2017 9781474265539 (DLC) 2016033327 |
| ISBN |
9781474265553 (electronic book) |
|
1474265553 (electronic book) |
|
9781474265546 (electronic book) |
|
1474265545 (electronic book) |
|
9781474265539 (hardcover) |
|
1474265537 (hardcover) |
|
9781474265522 (paperback) |
|
1474265529 (paperback) |
|
