Introduction: Fashion, femininity and modernity in designer self-fashioning -- 1. Fashion and the time of modern femininity -- 2. Paul Poiret: classic and new in the struggle for designer mastery -- 3. Elsa Schiaparelli: glamour, privacy and timelessness -- 4. Christian Dior: nostalgia and the economy of feminine beauty -- Conclusion: fashioning self, reflecting ambivalence.
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